Questions regarding FlatpanelsHD reviews will be answered here.
By pgice
#7673 Great review but instead of sending back every tv right away that you test
keep them for awhile and compare them to the tvs you review :)

side by side comparisions says more about the tv.
for example we could watch those wrong colors on the oled in HDR10 mode if you had the Pana DX902 up at the same time.
now we dont know how off they really are compared to where they should be.
we could also compared how much dimmer the highlights was on the OLED in hdr compared to the Pana.
we know what 650nits looks like but how does they stand to 1300nits?

more side by side comparisions thanks and also comparisions against a reference monitor
people seems to forget fast how those 5% and 100% slides should look on a reference tv ;)
they look ok here but still they are not close to the uniformity of some other tvs.

i dont know what camera you have if its an DSLR but to get rid of the moire patterns use a higher F/stop or manually adjust focus.
the problem is that the camera picks up to much sharpness.
manually set focus slight out of range will reduce the moire patterns

as for photos with color accuracy from the tvs
set white ballance to 6500K on the DSLR
then you get photos that shows the exact colors that the tv shows irl
User avatar
By Rasmus Larsen
#7678
pgice wrote:Great review but instead of sending back every tv right away that you test
keep them for awhile and compare them to the tvs you review :)


I wish we could but it is not up to us. The manufacturers typically loan out TVs for a period of maximum 2-4 weeks because they only have a few samples available. The sample then go to other reviewers or exhibitions.

i dont know what camera you have if its an DSLR but to get rid of the moire patterns use a higher F/stop or manually adjust focus.
the problem is that the camera picks up to much sharpness.
manually set focus slight out of range will reduce the moire patterns


Thanks for the input.

We are also usually able to avoid moiré and other issues but we noticed it during editing of the photos and the TV had already been collected. Normally we take new photos if we notice camera-related noise.
By tjcinnamon
#7679 How do things look with weaker 720p video? Real curious about the upscaler compared to let's say a Sony 940D or 930D. I noticed you said it crushes and perhaps accentuates blacks on a less quality input signal

Also, I'm a PC gamer. Is it possible to push the B6 or E6 greater than 60FPS?
By pgice
#7680 About tracking DCI-P3 instead of rec2020 for HDR10 content
can you explain more as i dont get it.

for HDR you use the native gamut of the tv right
and thats the widest gamut and the limits of the tv.

both HDR10 and Dolby Vision uses rec2020 container right
then how can colors be off with HDR10 and not with Dobly Vision?
they both uses the same locked native gamut and that gamut is still much smaller than rec2020

it sounds more like dolby vision uses its own gamut settings and not the full native gamut ?
if dolby vision changes the native gamut to track better to rec2020 then you probably will have less colors to play with than with HDR10.
just like it shrinks the native gamut to track rec709
By Q-the-STORM
#7686 I'm gonna get a E6 soon, I want to calibrate it myself (no good calibrators in my area, plus I have been wanting to get into calibrating for a while)

what colorimeter/spectrophotometer would you recommend for OLED?
e.g.
X-Rite i1Display Pro is about 200€
X-Rite I1 Basic Pro 2 is about 1300€
I would pay the premium to get the basic pro, if it is a lot better than the display pro...
people say that spectrophometers are way better (basic is spectro, display is colori), but I've also read people saying that specifically the Display Pro is better than the Basic Pro in low light, so especially with OLED the Display Pro seems better...

I will work my way into DisplayCAL, but I do have a friend that might be able to lend me a laptop with Calman 5 on it so I'll try that as well, I just can't borrow a colorimeter... Since I do want to do touchups along the way and have a bunch of other displays I could calibrate (and I want to get into it) buying a colorimeter/spectro seems like a good choice... I'm just not sure what to get since there is not much wisdom out there for TVs with black levels like this year's OLED....
By pgice
#7687 i think i can answer that
get the i1D3 Colormeter and then get it profiled against a reference spectrometer as i have done.
thats the closest you can get to reference readings for decent money.

you need to profile it against a top spectrometer as the JETI 1211 to get accurate results
that I1 Basic Pro is not accurate (not for whites anyway)
results here:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-displ ... st36599122


read the post from Chad B here and why a profiled i1D3 is enough
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-displ ... st24792830
if you have a lot of patience and set the i1D3's read time and LLH long enough, you can have about the same repeatability and accuracy of the K-10a


the best thing to do is to buy an already profiled i1D3 from chroma pure
http://www.chromapure.com/

when you have the meter forget traditional calibration.
Go for 3D LUT calibration.
it will take picture quality to a whole new level.
the thousands of corrections for colors that is made will transform the tv.
3D LUT calibration can turn a mid range tv into a studio reference display.
if you go for 3D LUT with displcal and PC you can even put in the spectrometer corrections for the i1D3 colormeter.
By Q-the-STORM
#7688 Sounds good..
I was planning to do regular calibration and then do a 3D LUT calibration to use in madVR....

Does Chromapure's OEM version of the Display Pro have more compatibility with other software than the retail version?
I know only the retail version works with the X-rite software, but is the retail version more compatible to other software than chromapure's OEM version? It's only an additional 29$ to get the retail version, so I wanna make sure to get the right one.
But I guess as long as it works with ArgyllCMS (which I need for 3DLUT calibration for madVR) either should be fine.

Or am I completely wrong and they don't profile the retail version at all?

Seems like you can only buy the meter in a bundle with the 200$ software. But I guess it's good to have another software to play with, even if it is expensive.


//The UK reseller seems to offer the standalone meter:
http://www.chromapure.co.uk/details.asp ... e=products
it's also a bit cheaper even if you also buy the software.
Plus since I live in Germany, shipping will be cheaper.
By pgice
#7690 maybe its better to start a new thread in the calibration section?

didnt know chromapure had store in the uk aswell
its the upgraded i1D3 you want which is profiled against a spectrometer.
http://www.chromapure.co.uk/details.asp?id=24&type=blog

One example of how OFF the retail version of the i1D3 can be.
before i was sending it for profiling i thought i had calibrated the whites on my KPP-500A plasma for reference.
it turned out that had used the wrong whiteballance for several years.
when i got the meter back the whites had an dE of 6!
it took some weeks to get used to the new and "correct" whiteballance but now when i have done it i see colors that i didnt see before.

if you want help setting up dispcal and madvr for 3d lut calibration let me know.
once setup its easy.
By Q-the-STORM
#7691 So the folks at the UK reseller told me if I buy the upgraded meter, I will get the meter and a list of profile measurements via pdf... I assume I can then use these measurements somehow in displaycal? (or other software like calman)